This exhilarating route begins at Ogwen Cottage, a popular base for walkers in Eryri (Snowdonia), nestled beside the serene waters of Llyn Ogwen. The name “Ogwen” may stem from the Welsh og (“youth”) and gwyn (“white” or “blessed”), perhaps alluding to the clarity of the nearby river.

From the cottage, the trail picks up the Cambrian Way, a long-distance path that spans the length of Wales. The ascent begins immediately, climbing steadily toward the rugged heights of Glyder Fach. At 994 metres, this “small heap” (fach) of shattered rock is anything but modest. It’s famed for the Cantilever Stone, a dramatic slab jutting into space, and the jagged spires of Castell y Gwynt (“Castle of the Winds”), whose fantastical form has graced the screen in fantasy films.

Traversing westward along the ridge, the route reaches Glyder Fawr, the highest peak in the Glyderau range at 1,001 metres. Its name, from gludair (“heap of stones”) and fawr (“great”), aptly describes the summit’s chaotic landscape of fractured rock and scree.

The descent plunges into the shadowy cleft of Twll Du, known in English as the Devil’s Kitchen. The Welsh name means “black hole,” referencing the dark chasm in Clogwyn y Geifr (“Cliff of the Goats”). Mist often rises from the fissure, resembling smoke from a chimney—hence the English name.

Emerging from the gloom, the path opens into Cwm Idwal, Wales’ first National Nature Reserve. This glacial cwm, named after the ill-fated 12th-century prince Idwal, is a geological treasure trove with exposed Ordovician rock and glacial features that once drew the attention of Charles Darwin.

The route concludes with a gentle walk back to Ogwen Cottage, completing a loop rich in legend, language, and landscape.

This walk is much more challenging than the average walk and requires good boots and wet weather gear. Even in good weather allow much more time than usual for the walk, leave early to avoid walking in the dark and be aware there is a lot of scrambling. The path is not always clearly laid out, so a good map, GPS device and compass are vital. In wet weather the rocks can be slippery and we found hiking sticks helped.